Thome Browne Rules Of Style

Following up on Saturdays rules of style by Band of Outsiders' Scott Sternberg, here is Thom Browne's take. Long known for his controversial shrunken suit aesthetic he offers a very different perspective:

1) I don’t understand why everybody thinks that dressing casually is so much more comfortable. I’m as comfortable in a suit as I am in anything else.

2) Good champagne—good, not expensive—has been my cocktail of choice for as long as I can remember. I like them all—Bollinger, Taittinger, and others. I also collect champagne coupes; I have more than 10. They’re one of the few things that I collect.

3) Chariots of Fire, Death in Venice, North by Northwest, and The Thomas Crown Affair are some of my favorite films—and they’re all particularly inspiring for menswear. I watch movies all the time but I don’t like to go to the theater. It’s just too much.

4) Guys shouldn’t spend a lot of money on a haircut. I go to Chelsea Barbers in New York, where I pay about $30. The price went up, but I’m very loyal to the woman there.

5) It’s sad that the cell phone is replacing the watch as a time-telling device. I wear a vintage watch that’s really skinny.

6) When it comes to shoes, you don’t really need more than a few pairs of wing tips or oxfords. They’re classics. And I wear only black shoes in the city. Brown ones are for the country.

7) Men don’t know enough about being courteous toward women. You should get into a cab before a woman so she doesn’t have to slide across the seat. And you should always go first into a revolving door so she doesn’t have to push—unless it’s moving, then let her go first.

8) Seersucker and khaki suits are the key to looking put-together in the summer. I also wear shorts year-round. And I would never say never, but I don’t wear sandals. With shorts, it’s wing tips and tennis socks.

9) I like menswear from the late fifties and early sixties. It’s the uniformity and the lack of choice from that era that I respond to. It’s also the last time that there was such a distinct American style. Now it’s all jumbled up and homogenized.

10) I love white linen sheets, but they need to be ironed, so that limits my use of them. Otherwise, I like really good, starched white cotton sheets. They have to be white.

Scott Sternberg Rules of Style

I really enjoyed this top ten rules of style by head designer of Band Of Outsiders, Scott Sternberg. I don't agree with all of it, but it is entertaining. Enjoy!

1) Opening a conversation with "What do you do?" makes you sound like a shifty, social-climbing dickwad. Small talk is for sissies, but if you're stuck with it, you can certainly come up with something better than that.

2) Talking about what brand you're wearing is gay in the bad way. Just keep quiet and play dumb if someone asks. Talking about what a great deal you got on the aforementioned item is worse. If you must, tell your mom, because she has sale empathy and will take your victory as her own. It's sick.

3) I don't think a tie is a relic, not yet. It's purely masculine—that one garment that allows you to go a little outside the box. A tie with a well-cut suit makes you look put-together and confident. It's an auto-chic, easy uniform.

4) Cigarettes are a vile, dirty habit. Joints, on the other hand, are perfectly acceptable.

5) Whenever you start a new project or a new job, don't tell anyone what you're working on, because it can change direction a million times and once you start telling the world about it, you get constrained by your own mouth.

6) That skin-toned paste your girlfriend gave you to treat your pimple is makeup. Don't kid yourself. You're a girl if you use it. Figure something else out.

7) Rabid atheism does not lead to attractive or acceptable cocktail-party conversation. You know who you are and you need to chill. We get it, okay? God is for dummies. Now shut your hole.

8) It's just not cool to fart on a plane, even if everyone's ears are plugged from the altitude and they can't hear where it came from. Heed my warning: Airplane-fart karma is a bitch, and you will find yourself at the receiving end on a sleepless transcontinental red-eye soon enough.

9) Style fills the gap between how you see yourself and how you want other people to see you. It is not a mysterious quality reserved for Cary Grant or Liberace. You have a sense of it in there somewhere. It's just a matter of finding a way to express it without seeming like you're trying.

10) Rules, as they say, are meant to be broken. Don't get too caught up with what I—or anyone else—tell you about your personal style, except for No. 8.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2009

A sneak peak at MMM Spring/Summer 09. I am getting a bit of 70's Disco Vibe. Could it have anything to do with disco ball mirrored leggings, perhaps?

That said, there are definitely a few solid wearable pieces in the collection, like the fantastically cut blazers, and a great trench in a unique light beige color that would work well for spring showers.

Most Stylish Men in America, Really?

Click here to check out GQ's list of the Most Stylish Men in America.

It sounds more like a list of celebrities with stylists that GQ likes. TI, really?! Come on, there has got to be better dressed people in America. I hope. Please. Anyone?

The End for Obedient Sons

It has come to my attention that the clothing brand, Obedient Sons, has recently folded due to complications with their primary investor, Green Day Bassist, Mike Dirnt.

However, the news is not all bad for designers, Christina and Swaim Hudson, they are planning on returning to the fashion world with a new label.

A sneak peak at the upcoming designs, reveals some interesting experimentation with proportion:

Band of Outsiders at Fashion Week

As promised, here are some pictures from Band of Outsiders at Fashion Week. BoO continues its tradition of American classic preppy. They also showed off their women's line, ironically called Boy.

Some fantastic suits coming out of the collection. The bow ties, rep ties and especially the madras suit exemplify Ivy inspired. Perhaps Scott Sternberg has been reading Ivy Take. Did I mention boat shoes?

Band of Outsiders

Band of Outsiders has received a ton of well deserved press in the past year. Kanye West is a big fan, and despite Mr. West's stylistic shortcomings, they are winning me over as well.

Like APC, it is another great company offering classic styles with slim profiles. They are best known for their dress shirts, which are extremely well cut (think short, and skinny), but come with a hefty price tag of 200+ retail. Many people swear by the shirts while others grumble about the price, but rarely about the cut.

The company is doing some great marketing on their website, and offering us an image that is well constructed. The retro use of Polaroid photographs really conjures up an eclectic nostalgia of stylish, modern clothing worn in a classic way. As you surely know by now, the prevalence of wayfarers is something I approve of as well.

This year they are offering a BoO x Sperry collaboration, which really does look fantastic and I encourage you to check out. It looks like boat shoes are making a big comeback this spring with BoO, Sperry and APC leading the pack. However, the boots are definitely the stand out of this collaboration.

Band of Outsiders is a great American prep inspired collection, I look forward to their future offerings.

BoO will be presenting at Fashion Week today, check back soon to see some pics, until then their site is here.

APC Spring/Summer 2009

Long known for their beautifully cut raw jeans, APC has been the focus of some criticism with its most recent collection of Spring/Summer 2009. The argument basically follows that APC is not doing anything new or creative, it is just the same designs as previous seasons.

I understand the argument and in reality it is a fair criticism. There is simply not much innovation going on with the brand. They are safe, focused, and deliberate in their collections.

Everytime.

That is what I like about them. They are a French, minimalist brand who season after season produces high quality, stylish clothes, for both men and women. The materials are quality, the cuts are slim, and the designs are classic.

If it ain't broken don't fix it.

That being said, I am not a big fan of the Nike collaboration. The boat shoes on the other hand are fantastic. I am also liking the slim cut navy suit, a must in any wardrobe.

I will continue supporting the brand, I just wish they would bring a retail outlet to Canada.

Disheveled Elegance

I have been obsessed with a look that can be only described as disheveled elegance. Let me explain:

First there is a majority of people who just don't care about their looks at all. Easily recognizable by their Crocs, sports jersey's and sweatpants.

Then there is the small minority who care a bit too much. Although clearly far superior to the majority who don't care at all, they to seem to lack something. Maybe everything is just a bit too coordinated. A little too matchy matchy. Everything falls into place just so, and any imperfections that may arise are quickly adjusted.

Then there are those who conjure up the term disheveled elegance. These people often appear as though they after a hard night of drinking, or are even taking the walk of shame. They do not seem consciously aware of their style, no matter how planned it may really be. It might be a shirt untucked, a button missing, or untended facial hair. They look like they have lived interesting lives. You wonder what kind of stories they have to tell.

Their clothes are chic but lived in, and that is the essence of disheveled elegance.

Painting: Willem de Kooning, Gotham News

Fashion Week Tickets on Craigslist?

Supposedly people have been selling tickets to fashion week online.

Check out the article here.

Not sure how to feel about it. I suppose it gives an opportunity for people to go, who would regularly be unable to. On the other hand there are the obvious ethical issues surrounding the practice.

The Pocket Square

When is a pocket square appropriate? What color should I wear? What kind of fold should I use?

There has been some debate about whether a pocket square is appropriate for all occasions. Although there is no easy answer, I believe the pocket square can be adapted to any situation.

A commonly cited concern is that a pocket square at the workplace will give unwanted attention and label you as an eccentric. I agree that if you are wearing a rainbow colored square that is bursting from you breast pocket, you may attract some odd glances. the solution is simple: a reserved white linen square, in a TV fold will never draw a negative response. It is a neat fold that will only be noticed by those looking for such detail. The key is judging your audience, and understanding norms.

When in social situations I am in the school of thought that the pocket square can be as pronounced as you wish. It is your opportunity to experiment with color and design. Try different folds, and find what you suits your style.

A word of caution: I would avoid matching tie and pocket square. The result is often amateur and a bit cheesy. Try complimentary colors that don't clash, but accentuate each other. For example, pink and green and gray and yellow are two of my staples.

For ideas on how to fold your square click here.

The Curious Case of Benjamin Button

Today I had the opportunity to watch The Curious Case of Benjamin Button starring Brad Pitt and Cate Blanchett. Despite receiving mainly positive reviews, many people complained about its length and resemblance to Forrest Gump when it first debuted.

Although the Forrest Gump motif is accurate, I enjoyed the movie. It is a classic love story, with a twist. Although not a revelation by any means, it's simplicity takes you through the journey of love lost. The movie has a heart, despite it's lack of thematic novelty and Hollywood budget.

The length of the film did not bother me. I actually felt that the duration of the movie allowed me to better relate to the characters. It is also refreshing to see a film breaking the Hollywood mold of 1 hour and 3o minute films.

In addition, Brad Pitt was seen displaying some classic style. From the Belstaff motorcycle jacket, Clarks desert boots, to the pale yellow v-neck sweater, the film does a good job of styling its characters. It is a great example of effortless style that many of us can adopt, no matter how old we are.

Chuck Bass Style

Chuck Bass, the fictional character on Gossip Girl, offers more style inspiration then just his signature scarf. Indeed, from his often wild and flamboyant ways we can take away a few pointers on how to improve our daily dress.

1) Cut of of the suit - Modern, slim, and always on the short side, the cut of a Chuck Bass suit offers a refreshing change to the sea of over sized, too long suits we see on a daily basis. Great sleeve length is also displayed on a regular basis. If you are a slim guy your silhouette should be progressively moving toward this cut.

2) Shoes - Brown leather Italian shoes, boat shoes, and never seen in sneakers. Nothing more needs to be said here.

3) Pocket Square - Chuck bass is often seen displaying a prominent pocket square. This accessory has been making a comeback in recent years. I am all for it, in all environments. Just remember not to match it to your tie.

4) Don't be scared of color - lots of yellows, greens, pinks, and reds. Not only for pocket squares but for socks, sweaters, scarves and even pants. Most of us are far too reserved in our use of color. Experiment, and you too will stand out in the sea of black, blue, and grey men's clothing.

5) Confidence - Finally and most importantly having confidence and feeling comfortable in your clothes is key to looking good. Your posture, presence, speech and most importantly your mind all play a key role in pulling off a Chuck Bass inspired look.

Just remember, when in doubt keep it on the subdued side.

Common Men's Wear Mistakes Part 2

This is a continuation of the first post, common men's wear mistakes. As I stated before avoid these at all costs. I know I am not the only one who hates these so much. So lets take a look at a few more common menswear mistakes.

6) Sweatpants - Again, at the gym might be appropriate, even at home on occasion. However, outside, to a public function? Never.

7) Long sleeve lengths - Applies especially to suits, but this is clearly visible in all outerwear. The sleeve of casual jacket should never get to the base of your thumb. And for suits and blazers please stop at the wrist. Make sure to show 1/4 to 1/2".

8) Large graphics, branding - You don't want to be a walking advertisement. You shouldn't have to rely on a brand to achieve your image. When i see it I think one word: tacky.

9) Tucking T-shirts in - I have never seen this look good, ever, prove me wrong.

10) Almost all sandals - They just do not look good. Keep them at the beach.

11) Crew Neck T-shirt visible under dress shirt - wear a v-neck its not that hard.

12) Clipping your cell phone to your belt - This reminds me of a fanny pack. Put it in your pocket, in a bag but whatever you do don't have it dangling off your midsection.

I think I will stop there for now as I just threw up in my mouth a little bit.

Why Ed Hardy Sucks

We have all seen the ubiquitous shirts designed by Ed Hardy, and his ensemble being sported by many men in the last 2 years. They are easily recognizable by their over abundant graphics, multiple skulls, liberal use of the bedazzler and $ 100+ price tags. These shirts have been spotted on the backs of Shaquille O'Neal, Madonna, Miley Cyrus and your local teenage "rebel".

For those that are unfamiliar with the brand (lucky you!), let me offer an example:

Clearly lacking in any kind of semblance of design, and unfamiliar with the term minimalism, this is something you an overambitious 8 year old boy might design at a t-shirt design store.

Ed Hardy and Christian Audigier were first based on tattoo designs, now these shirts have become a trophy of the tasteless. Devoid of any artistic merit that their original designs were based, they now expel excess as being the name of the game. Unfortunately, these companies and cheaper copy cats have spread like Britney Spears exiting a motor vehicle.

Closely related to Ed Hardy, we have Affliction and Tapout which are more linked to Mixed Martial Arts then tattoo culture. I just wanted to remind everyone that pulling the t-shirt will not make you fight like George St. Pierre. Apparently that fact is lost on many fans of the brands as bar owners have been banning the shirts from their establishments. My hat goes off to them.

When I think of this trend I am reminded of a similar beast appearing in the mid 90's. No Fear t-shirts and Von Dutch also come to mind. Let's hope that this trend will disappear just as quickly.

If you come away with anything from this blog let it be this: money does not buy taste.

Raw Men's Jeans

By now, most people who concern themselves with men's style, are aware of the raw jeans trend. For those who aren't, allow me to elaborate.

These jeans are typically a dark indigo color with no distressing of any kind. The idea is that as you wear them, with time, they will acquire natural distressing. This creates a much more natural fade which eliminates awkward fade patterns such as having the distressing on the back of the knee, somewhere around the middle of your calf.

The jeans are often considered "projects" by their owners. They wear them as often as possible, and avoid washing them for as long as possible. This method allows for the highest contrast fades on your jeans. However this also means the jeans might not be washed for 6 months or more. However the results often speak for themselves.

The branding is usually minimal on these jeans which allows for pairing with more tasteful outfits. It will also prevent you from looking like the next douchebag teenager who thinks having large R's on the pockets is a fashion statement.

I personally have purchased the APC Rescues, which have a classic straight leg and minimalist styling. Another popular choice is the APC NS with its slimmer, more tapered cut. There has been some debate on the sizing, so make sure to do your research before ordering online, or better yet try some on at a local retailer.

They are not cheap often running $150+ But the wear you get out of them, they are definitely worth they hefty price tag.

If you want to check some out try APC, Kicking Mule Workshop, or Nudie. If you want to go really high end right away check out Pure Blue Japan, Sugar Cane or Dior.

As with most things in life, quality supercedes quantity.

Workwear Trend

A short article from Newsweek about the workwear trend.

You might want to incorporate this trend in moderation. Perhaps a pair of Red Wing Boots or a slim fitting flannel?

Common Men's Wear Mistakes

There are a few things that I see on a regular basis, that are not only plainly sub par, but outright hideous. These need to be addressed, if for no other reason but to reduce how often they are appearing on the streets. These style faux pas never work. Don't try them, and if you are doing them, please stop.

1) Blue tooth ear pieces - Nothing more annoying and just plain ugly. Not only is it extremely awkward when someone is walking down the street and appears to be talking to himself, but occasionally bystanders believe you are speaking to them. Aesthetically, they have no redeeming values. Unless your going for the robocop look.

2) Square toed dress shoes - Atrocious is the best way to describe these "dress shoes" which are ubiquitously found across all segments of the population. From teenagers to middle aged business men, this shoe should be avoided at all costs.

3) Wearing elaborate sneakers outside of the gym - We have all seen those sneakers which look like they're from the future. With air cushions, shock absorbing springs, and multiple colorways appropriate on a basketball court, but not to a night out at a restaurant.

4) Ill fitting clothes - Measure your waist size 1-2 inches below your belly button, buy corresponding size pants. Do not sag them to the point that we can see your underwear. No one is interested. Shirts sleeves shoulder hems should rest at the end of the shoulder, not go halfway down your bicep. Avoid excess fabric, but we don't need to see where your nipples are either.

5) Crocs - No further elaboration necessary.

Stay tuned for part 2 coming soon.

Sunglasses

One of my favorite accessories, and I think one of the most important is a great pair of classic sunglasses.

Many people state that they refuse to spend over 100 dollars for sunglasses as they tend to sit on them or otherwise break them. However, I have several pairs which I have used for a few years. The simple solution is using a hard case when you are not wearing them. This alone will alone prevent most accidents.

With that in mind we can look at some do's and don'ts for your next pair of sunnies. Avoid large logos, emblazoned on the side. Also odd colors such as white and red just scream fashion victim, and are quickly dated. Stick to the classics, black or tortoise shell, only. Make sure to inspect the glasses carefully and avoid buying one which say they are made in China, you want to be paying for quality after all. The most important thing is that they fit your face. So make sure to go into a store and try some on.

Keep in mind plastic frames are not adjustable on the bridge, so if the fit is off on plastic frames, its best to move on to another pair, or another size in the same style.

Once you know what you want, you can typically find them on the internet for about 40% off retail. Just be careful not to fall prey to cheap knock-offs.

Here are a few quick ideas, feel free to experiment with stylized versions, or find your own favorites.

Ray ban Aviator:

Available in multiple sizes, and colorways. Simple, classic, effective. Feel free to experiment with other companies offerings with slightly different shaped lenses. Find whats right for you.

Ray ban Wayfarer:

A classic from blues brothers to Bob Dylan. Now available in multiple sizes. 50, 52, 54, and 55 mm. Stick with the smaller sizes for an updated look.

Persol:

Another timeless looking pair, sported by the new James Bond himself, Daniel Craig. Lots of high quality designs available.